Choosing your tartan
Clan and Sept tartans
Kilt length
Kilt material
Bespoke
Ready to Wear Kilts
Jackets
Accessories
Sporrans
Belt and buckle
Flashes
Ties
Shirts
The Dirk
Kilt packages
Getting married in a kilt
Taking care of your kilt
Making alterations to your kilt
History of the kilt
What to wear under your kilt
A-Z of Kilts
Tartan beyond Scotland's borders

Choosing your tartan

There are more than 4000 registered tartans. Many people choose a tartan that has a family connection, for example a parents or grand parents surname. You could also choose a district tartan, picking an area of Scotland that you feel an affiliation with. Other counties with district tartans include Canada, Australia, Ireland and the United States.

There are lots of tartans that are considered 'general tartans' that anyone can wear, for example Jacobite, Caledonian, Pride of Scotland and Black Watch.

Or you can simply choose a tartan that you like the colour and design of.

If you are looking for an unusual tartan, it might need to be woven specifically for you. This is a straightforward process, but one which will take a little longer. A small number of tartans are restricted to particular families or corporations, you can check with us, or look up the tartan you are interested in on the Scottish Register of Tartans http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk

Many tartans come in modern, ancient and weathered versions. The modern colours are darker and bolder (representing modern chemical dyes). Ancient versions are slightly faded to give an older look and weathered version are even more faded - both are made to look as though they have been died with plant dyes used in the past.

There are also dress and hunting versions of some tartans. Despite the names both are suitable for formal occasions. The hunting tartan is made up of natural earthy tones such as green or brown, whereas dress tartans contain more white. The dress style takes after the plaid worn by Highland women, called earasaid, which was usually white with colourful patterns.

Clan and Sept tartans

These are tartans that clan and families related to them are entitled to wear, you can check whether your family name has a clan connection by looking at Ancestral Scotland www.ancestralscotland.com or Electric Scotland www.electricscotland.com. Families that are related to a clan - through marriage or because they sought protection from the clan - are called Septs. Many Septs later became clans in their own right and many septs are related to more than one clan.

Kilt length

The standard kilt length is 8 yard there is also a casual 5 yardkilt. Different weights 10oz, 13oz and 16oz are available. The medium weight -13oz, and heavy weight -16oz, tend to hang best. The light weight - 10oz kilt is a good choice for a casual event or if you will be wearing it in a warmer climate.

Kilt material

Traditionally kilts are made of 100% wool, choosing a wool kilt means you will have the widest possible choice of tartan, a kilt that has great texture and which is very hardwearing - such kilts are often handed down from generation to generation, and altered to fit each person.

Kilts are available in Polyviscose (a mixture of polyester and viscose). Polyviscose produces a kilt that hangs and swings in the same way as a wool kilt. These kilts are a great first purchase kilt and an alternative for people who have a wool allergy. The choice of tartans available in Polyviscose are limited to the most popular tartans.

Bespoke

The terms 'Made to Measure' and 'Bespoke' have come to mean pretty much the same when talking about kilts. If you choose this option your kilt will be cut and tailored to fit you and you will have the choice of your kilt being pleated to sett or to stripe.

Pleating to sett: this is the most common form of pleating, pleats are lined up vertically and horizontally to form the same overall pattern in the tartan. The result is that the kilt looks identical front and back.

Pleating to stripe: also know as military pleating, due to it's popularity with military bands. It involves selecting one of the stripes in the cloth to pleat to, as a result the front and back of the kilt look different. This is great option, though not ideal for all tartans.

A bespoke kilt takes between three to six weeks to make. If your tartan is being woven for you allow an extra 10 weeks. Please bear in mind that your kilt will be made to your exact measurements so it's important to get them right.

Ready to Wear Kilts

You should also be able to get an excellent fit with a ready to wear kilt - as there are a large selection of tartans and sizes available.

Jackets

Prince Charlie

Named after the Young Pretender, Charles Edward Stuart, the Prince Charlie is a traditional choice for weddings, dances and other formal events. Prince Charlie's come in black, blue and green. For a classic look team a black Prince Charlie with an 8-yard kilt, 3 button vest (waistcoat) and bow tie. If you are looking for something more contemporary wear it with a 5 button waistcoat, Victorian collar shirt and ruche tie.

Argyle

Less formal than a Prince Charlie an Argyll jacket is the most versatile option as it can work for both formal and casual events depending on the accessories chosen to go with it. For formal events wear it with a bow tie and a semi-dress or dress sporran. You might also like to team it with a 5 button waistcoat. For a more casual look a leather day sporran and wool tie look the part.

Tweed Crail

This has features of both Prince Charlie and Argyll styles, but it closest to the Argyll. A Tweed Crail is a great choice for casual events such as a Ceilidhs and Highland Games. It's also smart enough to wear when attending a wedding. It can be worn with or without a vest (waistcoat).

Accessories

Kilt pin

Whether you are wearing a casual or formal kilt you will need a kilt pin to complete your outfit. Apparently Queen Victoria, on a regimental inspection, offered her brooch to a solider struggling to keep his kilt from blowing up in the wind. And, so the story goes, from then on the kilt pin became part of regimental highland dress.

Most kilt pins look like miniature swords and daggers. There are a huge number of different styles featuring Celtic designs and clan crests they are made or pewter and silver and are between 2- 5 inches long.

The kilt pin should be worn on the right hand side of the kilt, around 4 inches from the bottom. To prevent tearing it should only be pinned to the top apron of the kilt.

Sporrans

Choose from day, semi dress and dress sporrans.

The leather day sporran, available in black or brown leather is ideal for casual daytime events. You can pick from a range of designs and opt or a sporran with or without tassels.

For semi-formal events where you are going for a slightly less formal look a semi-dress sporran, which works well for casual and formal events, is a good choice. These are generally made of fur or leather.

Full dress sporrans are perfect for formal events such as weddings, they come in a wide range of furs, feature between 3 and 6 fur tassels and have engraved cantles.

Belt and buckle

These serve a decorative function - so it's totally up to you whether you wear one - if you're wearing a waistcoat this looks best without a belt.

Choose a belt and buckle to compliment your outfit, belts have different designs on them and the buckles come in different designs and in polished and antique finishes.

Hats

Balmoral

The hat of choice of the famous Black Watch regiment. It goes best with formal dress.

Glengarry

The Glengarry is a boat shaped hat, without a peak. It has a bobble on top and ribbons on the headband that hang down. The Glengarry is worn by every regiment in the British Army apart from the Black Watch who wear the Balmoral. It is also popular with civilians, most notably pipe bands.

The diced Glengarry which features a diced red, white and black band, is an alternative option.

A Glengarry hackle is a feather worn at the side of a Balmoral, certain regiments and military pipe bands have adopted them to distinguish themselves. Available in: black, green, red, blue, and red/white.

Ghillies, or Ghillie Brogues the shoe of choice for wearing with a kilt and a staple for pipe bands. have no tongue and lace up around the ankles. They are available in black and brown leather.

Kilt hose (socks) come in a variety of solid colours to match any tartan.

Flashes

Come in a wide range of colours and tartans. If you are having a kilt made for you can usually request flashes in the same tartan.

Ties

Bow tie - a traditional and highly popular choice, great with a Prince Charlie jacket.

Ruche ties - these go with formal or casual outfits. They look best with either a plain or wing collar shirt. As they are shorter in length than a standard tie they should be worn with a waistcoat.

Standard long tie - a contemporary option, available in different colours. It can be worn for a formal or casual look.

Shirts

Wing Collar - perfect with a bow tie for formal occasions.

Victoria - similar to a Wing collar, but with larger lapels. Works well with a ruche tie

Ghillie - an open necked shirt which laces up at the front. Goes well with a Jacobite waistcoat. Perfect for a less formal look. Available in a range of colours.

Waistcoats

3 button waistcoat

For a traditional formal look wear with a prince Charlie jacket and bow tie.

5 button waistcoats

to suit either Prince Charlie jackets or Argyll jackets. looks great with a Victoria collar shirt and ruche tie.

Jacobite waistcoat

Versatile waistcoat which looks great with any casual kilt outfit and a ghillie shirt

Fly Plaid

Provides a distinctive touch for formal events and a great choice for grooms. The Fly Plaid consists of a section of pleated cloth in the same tartan as the kilt. It is worn over the left shoulder, passed through the shoulder epaulette and hangs down with a plaid broach attaching it to the front of the jacket.

Sgian Dubh

Sgian Dubh, Gaelic for "black knife" is a small dagger of 3-4 inches in length.

There are lots of different styles of Sgian Dubhs with handles made of mahogany, stag antler, oak, and ivory. Handles often feature Celtic motifs and can be topped with semi-precious stones.

Many believe the Sgian Dubh was originally a utility knife worn in the stocking top so it could be grabbed easily. It should be worn in the right hand sock if you are righted handed and the left if you are left handed.

Due to security concerns the Sgian Dubh has been banned at certain events. As a result Safety Sgian Dubhs - made out of resin and only for visual effect - are available.

The Dirk

The Scottish dirk - a single bladed 13 inch long dagger- has been apart of the Highland dress for 1000's of years. It is often worn by officers and pipers of regiments as well as part of formal evening dress. There are a variety of styles embossed with different crests, and jewels.

Kilt packages

A kilt package is a great option if you are buying a highland outfit for the first time. You'll get everything you need to put together a great highland look at a reasonable price. You will also have the flexibility to mix and match and upgrade specific items.

Getting married in a kilt

Why not have a kilt made in your family tartan and encourage your best men to wear it to? You could also coordinate the flowers and place cards with one of the colours in your tartan. If you are ordering your tartan over the internet, it would be good to see a example of the material to make sure the colours come out the same as on your computer screen.

To distinguish the groom, and there are a number of options - he could wear a Fly plaid in the same tartan as his kilt, or wear a different type of sporran, or tie to the rest of the wedding party.

Hiring outfits is a great option for guests who might not necessarily want to invest in a kilt. Using thistle or heather for corsages and button holes is a nice alternative.

For the bride small touches of tartan, so as not to compete with the wedding dress, are the way to go. You could trim the bride's dress with tartan ribbons or put a tartan sash round her waist.

If you want to extend the theme why not arrange a bag piper or fiddle band or ask someone to read a passage by Rabbie Burns?

Taking care of your kilt

To help preserve the pleats, fold your kilt into three - as if you were going to wear it - and hang it up by its loops. Alternatively you can invest in a kilt carrier to protect your kilt while it hangs in your wardrobe - this would also protect against moths.

After you've worn your kilt air it for an hour or two especially if you have been in a smoky atmosphere.

Generally you should try not to clean your kilt too often. For spot cleaning, lukewarm water and a wool detergent should be sufficient. For a thorough clean wool kilts can be dry cleaned.

Making alterations to your kilt

Before making any alterations check that you are actually wearing your kilt round you waist - if your kilt is sitting on your hips it will be too long.

The straps on the kilt allow for some small weight changes to be accommodated. It is also possible to move the straps and buckles on the kilt to increase or reduce the size as needed.

Adult kilts can be hemmed to shorten them, this is a good option for casual kilts, but with heavier weights the hem may be visible. Alternatively material could be taken from the top of the kilt.

History of the kilt

The history of the kilt stretches back to the 16th century. In it's original form it was a basic design compromising a length of thick untailored woollen cloth which was gathered up into pleats and secured with a wide belt. The upper half was worn as a cloak draped over the shoulder or brought up over the head to protect against the weather. Before 1782 the Kilt was worn by solely by Highlands and military.

The 1745 Jacobite Rising against union with England led by Bonnie Prince Charlie drew wide support from the Highland clans. Their defeat at the hands of the English in 1746 saw the kilt being outlawed under the 'Dress Act' of 1746, which was passed by King George II.

The ban remained until 1782, after which time wearing a kilt became widespread throughout Scotland.

What to wear under your kilt

To go without underwear is often referred to as "going regimental" or "military practice" and is considered by some to be traditional practice, but as there isn't an official policy - the choice is yours!

If you want to know even more read our about kilts page.

You can also check out how to put on your outfit page for some useful advice and our
A-Z of Kilts.